The eating schedule is the adjustment nobody takes seriously until they are standing outside a closed restaurant at seven in the evening, genuinely hungry, being told the kitchen opens at half eight.

Rebuilding the day

Breakfast is small and early. Lunch is the real meal, around two, and it is long. Something small in the late afternoon keeps you going. Dinner is late and lighter than you expect.

It took me about three weeks to stop being hungry at the wrong times. Now the idea of eating dinner at six seems faintly unhinged.

You do not adapt to the schedule by willpower. You adapt because the alternative is eating alone.

My host mother finds my original timetable very funny and brings it up regularly with visitors.

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